The look of smooth, wrinkle-free skin has been sought after for centuries by both sexes.  One of the most used and studied anti-aging compounds has been retinoids.  Retinoids are topical vitamin-A based drugs that were first used as an acne treatment in the 1970s.  The first retinoid to be used was Tretinon, more commonly known as Retin-A.   Besides treating acne, researchers later discovered that retinoids could also bolsters skin’s thickness and elasticity, slow down the breakdown of collagen (necessary to keep skin firm) and could lighten brown spots caused by sun damage.

Retinoids have been prescribed by dermatologist for decades primarily because there is sufficient scientific backing of them and the fact that they do work. 

How do retinoids work?

Retinoids help reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen.  They can delay the breakdown of collagen and thicken the deeper layer of skin where wrinkles get their start. They also have the capability to prompt surface skin cells to turn over and die rapidly helping to make way for new cell growth underneath. 

Brown spots caused by excessive sun damage giving skin an uneven tone, can be sloughed off by retinoids which also curb the productions of melanin, a darker pigment.

Results from using retinoids do not happen overnight.  It can take up to three to six months of regular use before improvements in wrinkles and brown spots are apparent – the best results take up to six to 12 months. 

Retinoids can cause skin dryness and irritation making it important to always wear a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher during the day as they will increases the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight.  It is best to avoid being out in direct sunlight between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. when the sun’s rays are the strongest.

Dermatologists often recommend to begin using a retinoid every other day at first and then gradually working up to nightly applications.  Only a pea size amount each day of prescription retinoids or non-prescription retinol-based products are advised.  Any more than that amount could irritate the skin.

Different forms of retinoids

Prescription retinoids include Tretinoin (Retin-A), tazarotene (Avage, Tazorac), and adapalene (Differin).  Adapalene is also available over the counter in a 0.1% formulation versus the 0.3% prescription version. 

There are also several over-the-counter products containing retinoids, such as retinol.  These non-prescription products are not as strong and are less irritating but are not as effective in reducing wrinkles as tretinoin, but they do improve the appearance of photoaged skin.  Tretinoin can be used with alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) for additional skin-smoothing effects.

Are retinoids safe?

As long as a person follows the directions of how to use retinoids from their doctor, retinoids can be very safe.  However, a woman who is pregnant or breastfeeding should consult with her doctor for their opinion on use during that time.

The most common side effects from using a retinoid can include burning, stinging, tingling, itching, redness, swelling, dryness, peeling, irritation and discoloration of the skin.  If skin becomes very irritated, use a moisturizer and reduce using the retinoid.  Give it a few days for the skin to calm down before using it again.